One full day, one part afternoon and two nights in Shanghai. To break the return journey. The overwhelming impression we will leave with – people, people, people…. Our full day coincided with a public holiday. The whole of China was in Shanghai for the holiday it seemed. Young people, mums and dads, children, older people (thought not so many). Mostly it was youth we saw. No beggars (where were they?), not a hint of trouble (even though the crowds came in waves so huge that they totally overwhelmed the traffic system). The police – and related systems – were out in force, not in a punitive, threatening manner but certainly playing a tightly regulatory role. Not armed. The family groups and young couples we saw were having a great time visiting the main tourist spots, taking selfies (everywhere, all the time), resting on benches, checking their phones. Very much a Chinese middle class. In all the time we were in Shanghai, out in big crowds, we only saw/heard three little ones crying. The children were beautifully turned out, enjoying the holiday, happy.
The flight from London to Shanghai on Virgin Atlantic was uneventful (we have found Virgin to be very good). Immigration in Shanghai was smooth and speedy, customs slow but without problem. We found a place to stow our big bags at the airport and caught a shuttle to the International Centre where we had a self-catering room for two nights. Cute little space. Tiny kitchen, bathroom, sitting area and a mezzanine floor space with just a large, thin mattress on the floor. Views from the 17th floor to die for, looking out over/through big high-rise buildings with in-between views of the river and the boats and barges moving up and down.
What we didn’t realize was how close we were to the famous Bund. While waiting for our room to be ready we wandered out and, after a few false starts, found a street full of amazing art deco buildings and a place where we could have restorative tea. Later we made our way to the Bund, overlooking the River and joined our first Chinese crowd experience taking photos of the boats and the view across the river to the massive new buildings that define Pu Dong. More stunning art deco buildings lining the Bund. Evening meal on Nanking Road watching festive crowds stream up and down either side, shepherded by police.
Our one full day in Shanghai and we decided to spend it seeing the Yu Gardens and at the Shanghai Museum. From the Bund we caught a bus to the Yuyuan Tourist Mart from where we entered the gardens – already a queue of significant proportions. First built in 1559 the gardens have been damaged and repaired over the centuries but have now been declared a national monument. The place was heaving but by this time we had decided it was all part of the Shanghai experience – watching and being part of the pleasure of Chinese people out and about on their holiday. The gardens – of which buildings are an integral part – were very beautiful with an emphasis on water, greenery, stone and framed views. Without lots of bodies it would be a very contemplative place. We stopped at the Huxinting Teahouse and sat in a little alcove on the second floor of an octagonal tower?, large oriel window? And watched all the people swarming below us. Expensive but charming. With the green tea they served tofu, quail eggs, sticky rice parcels and two sweet eats. We enjoyed it.
In the gardens Russ talked with a group of students from Beijing and we both talked with a young man from Colombia who was teaching students English. He was lonely and missing his family, I think – very keen to converse with us. From the gardens we caught the hop-on/off bus to a stop near the Shanghai Museum. More highly regulated, uncomplaining queuing. The queuing was to get through security, not to pay – the museum was free. We selected two galleries to concentrate on – arts and crafts of Chinese minorities and ancient Chinese ceramics. I remember seeing very old Chinese ceramics at the British Museum years ago and in China when I was there in 1984, and thinking these pieces could have been made yesterday. They had a sophisticated artistic simplicity (the ones I liked best) and a technical virtuosity that was unparalleled. So it was with this visit. The most beautiful, beautiful ceramics. Deeply satisfying.
We left the museum and decided on an early meal, rather than going back to our accommodation and then out again. Found a delightful place – sort of Chinese/Japanese fusion I suspect, run by lovely young people who barbequed vegetables at our table. Then a slow slow bus ride through crowds, diversions, whistle-blowing police and heavy traffic back to the Bund from where we could stagger home. Really weary by this stage of our trip and ready to crash.
So, the following morning, taxi to Pu Dong airport, wait, wait, sleepless flight, arrival in Auckland, pick up and check in bags for final flight to Christchurch where Lesley was waiting – and on to Governors Bay where Tabby, Van and 16 chooks welcomed us home.
JaneRussell journeys 