We left Kendal on Saturday 8th to drive up through Penrith, Carlisle and, instead of heading directly north to Glasgow as I have done in the past, we turned due west heading into Dumfries and Galloway.
As we passed through the little town of Annan we spotted a distillery sign and made a quick decision to find it and stop there for a break in the long drive. It turned out that Annadale Distillery, having been opened in 1830 by George Donald and bought by Johnnie Walker in 1893, was closed down in 1924. In 2007 the distillery was reopened by the Annandale Distillery Company following a massive £4m investment.
In November 2014, the Annandale Visitor Centre opened and the first casks were distilled. In November 2017, the first casks were broached and 20 early production casks were selected for bottling. Annandale Distillery’s single cask, single malt scotch whiskies – Man O’Words and Man O’Sword (peated) – went on sale in June 2018.
Unfortunately tour times didn’t suit our schedule so we satisfied ourselves with a cup of tea (!!) in the very upmarket café. We enjoyed the lovely buildings.
Then on ever further westwards through gently rolling farmland running roughly parallel to the Solway Firth until we reached Newton Stewart. A final run south-west to arrive at tiny Port William on the east side of Luce Bay, there to stay with Russ’s very good and old friends Terry and Jackie in their delightful nineteenth century stone cottage, one of a number built by the Maxwell family (as in Gavin M – Ring of Bright Water), right on the sea.
After a much-needed cup of tea (always!) we headed a little further around the foreshore for a walk along the beach to the most amazing rock formations. We have yet to discover the geology behind these massive swirls and fissures but they are truly awe-inspiring. Out to sea in the distance we could see the Isle of Man and the long, low curve of the Stranraer peninsula. Overhead we saw a kestrel kettling – a first for me.
Back home to a delicious meal with local beer and whisky brought from Wales, all in a cottage which envelops you with its art and creativity. Then we went on badger watch!! Terry and Jackie have a badger set at the top of their garden, up a steep bank. We saw evidence of the set in the late afternoon. In the dark we sat in silence, wrapped round with blankets, hoping the badgers might be enticed by the food treats laid for them. Sure enough they were, but not while we were there. Instead we saw them the next morning on Terry’s motion camera. For someone who has always longed to see a badger, this was a dream come true (blame The Wind in the Willows).
The following day (yesterday) Terry, Russ and I wandered through Port William – one main road flanked by houses and bisected by a small harbour, before the four of us set out for a little tour of the broad headland that lies to the east of Port William. We visited Wigtown with its many bookshops (a Scottish Hay-on-Wye); Garlieston where we enjoyed Jackie’s delicious picnic lunch down by the sea; Whithorn – site of the first recorded Christian church in Scotland and home to excellent museum displays on the very early history of the area; and the Isle of Whithorn, site of the long-ruined 13th century St Ninian’s Chapel and a great lookout point.
The evening rounded off with a local pub meal, more unrewarded badger watching (the blankets this time accompanied by whisky) and welcome bed as the effects of blustery Scottish wind and whisky combined.
JaneRussell journeys 